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Messages - Deerslayer

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General Discussion / Re: Greetings and salutations
« on: June 22, 2017, 02:27:47 PM »
We have enjoyed having you amongst, and putting up with, the rest of us renegades/incorrigibles/reprobates/whatevers. I have enjoyed helping you a little bit toward getting the most out of your Fun Cub  - even "enouraging" you to set out to explore the local forest that one time! Your artistic talents are much appreciated - not too many others amongst us have lifted a paint scraper or paint brush out at the Toyground. The results speak for themselves!

We is gonna have sum big fun, Thomas!

Fly hard, Learn stuff, Have fun!

General Discussion / Re: Gary
« on: June 13, 2017, 09:00:32 AM »
Actually, Dwayne, I don't think it ever got all that high.

This flight started out just as the ground boundary layer was reaching "trigger temperature", i.e., the point at which that air is warm enough to begin to rise, given the particular lapse rate at the time. I had just started the flight, had possibly located a good thermal and did a "stoopid"  >:( - I glanced down at the Tx or something like that and suddenly could no longer locate the sailplane. This can happen. That is why I urge folks not to distract me - or anyone else flying a glider - when they are flying. (It's hard enough to concentrate on a small object at a great distance, against a blue sky!). In this case, I have only myself to blame ...  :'(

The problem then was, where is the sailplane? Had it gotten caught up in that thermal which I though I had located? Has it spun? This particular sailplane will spin readily and requires a positive spin recovery, in my experience. IF it was still flying, it could have "cored" the thermal, which I believed would be very strong, and could well have been several thousand feet altitude. I estimated cloudbase to be in the 5000 foot range,considering the sun time and general environment at that time. I tried setting "crow" and commanding a steep and prolonged dive. I performed what should have been a spin entry, again hoping to catch a gllitter of its reflective strips. Likewise, I tried loops. As the vario was still active, I did not give up hope; however, the tone settled down, and no matter what I did with the Tx, it did not change in tone, only got weaker. Eventually, the tone vanished. I probably spent 1/2 hour to an hour, fruitlessly trying to possibly getting some kind of response, along with several others trying to spot for me. In retrospect, the sailplane probably descended in a slow turn shortly after I lost sight of it, encountering the tree just before it would have made  really nice landing in the landfill clearing.

General Discussion / Re: Gary
« on: June 13, 2017, 04:12:13 AM »
Long story, but, with patience, skill and blind luck, I got my Heron sailplane back with nothing more than a couple of minor dings on wing and a stripped flap servo. Thanks, also, to my "Faskenometer" - the variometer that Dave built for me!
I had just about given up a couple of times, when I thought I  detected the faint sound of my vario. I had even put the Tx away, then fired it up again!
Was my baby still in the air somewhere? Was it on the ground nearby?

Louie persuaded me to come in his car to see if we could home in on the signal at a couple of locations on Fred Brown road. Nothing at all, so we returned to the field.

I shut down the Tx. Game over. Gary 0, Fate 1.

As I have told my boy and girl on occasion, when things look bad, "We Droppo never give up". So, I decided to wander over to the North of the field. Voila! The signal returned, faintly. So, I walked up the old County Road.  The signal was there, constant. After awhile, seeing no sign of the aircraft, I headed in to the old landfill area. No luck. Before giving up, I would climb up onto the landfill plateau to get a better view. Warning! This is hazardous, with some large, hidden holes and metal scrap all around ... not to mention that our local Black Bears may even use some of those as winter dens!

Well, well, there she was !!!  One wing standing up against a tree, the fuselage and other wing lying nearby. It looks like she landed at low speed,
The wings separating as the Multiplex folks had designed it. Yay! Gary 1, Fate 0. 

I owe a number of my comrades a vote of thanks for coming to my aid, trying to spot my sailplane, and especially to Louie for his driving skills. The latter effort persuaded me that the aircraft was North, not South of the field and led me to eventually head off in that direction.

General Discussion / Re: WOOHOO Second place!! (Update, video)
« on: June 09, 2017, 03:27:11 AM »
I had missed your video, as you just added it to the original post.  So, here is the link, in order that others might notice it. I learned a bit about CL from this. And, again,  I say, "Good Job, Dwayne!"

General Discussion / Re: WOOHOO Second place!!
« on: June 04, 2017, 04:01:44 AM »

That's our boy!  ;D  ;D  ;D Very good for business!

I hope that my "hat guy" was there at the podium to set you up for the photos, NASCAR style! (Make Dwayne Great Again - MDGA).

However, before you get too excited, we will not re-negotiate your contract. However, it is just slightly possible that there could be yet one more LA15 engine lurking around here somewhere ... if you continue to perform well!

General Discussion / Amazing 3D video at Huckin' In The Valley
« on: May 29, 2017, 06:02:03 AM »
There is more stuff over in RCCANUCKS but this is the one that really got me! Oscar quality  8)

FPV at KRCM / Re: FPV video
« on: May 13, 2017, 07:31:26 AM »
We have lots more videos, etc., and are rapidly gaining experience. We will be posting items here, possibly in a new Forum Topic.

We had one really great learning the other day. I was flying Wilf's plane and wanted to turn over control to him. I passed him the goggles, he put them on, I passed the Tx to him ... What could possibly go wrong with that? Hey, where's the airplane? :o :o :o Oops!!!! Eventually, the observer (me) spotted it! Lesson learned.

Wilf's FliteTest plane is an ideal FPV platform, as is my latest delta. We have both done full flights from launch through landings on FPV, with our First Officer standing by to help (a legal and insurance requirement and a good idea!). As with full sized flight crew, you have the Pilot Flying (PF) and Pilot Not Flying (PNF). On approach, in our case the PNF usually calls height s, etc. (treetop ... 20 feet ... 10 feet ... nose up/down ... flair/cut ... etc.).  The PF handles the aircraft, the PNF performs all other functions (radio work, checklists, etc.). Side note: this has nothing to do with rank, as a well-managed flight crew normally shares duties equally except in emergency conditions. The commonly used terms, "pilot" and "co-pilot", are not really meaningful - both are pilots and it is very possible that the First Officer could have more experience on type or overall than the Captain.

Wilf's camera pivots left and right. We have tried a couple of ways to manage the camera. Currently, what Wilf likes best is to have the left stick control left/right camera movement. His plane requires very little rudder at any time (my deltas don't have rudder, so that stick movement is also available for camera panning). That mixing can be switched on or off and gives a really great sideways view, as the servo travel is about 45 degrees and the camera is very wide angle, so you probably get close to 90 degree side view when needed.
 To make things more "natural", i.e., more like you would have in a real aircraft, I like having at least a switchable option to couple in, say, 10 degrees range of camera pan associated with ailerons. In an aircraft, when you enter a turn, you move your gaze toward the turn as you enter it an at least until you neutralize controls. This would work the same way

I/we plan to build a pan/tilt camera setup soon. I plan to try this set up a flight mode that, when enabled, moves the throttle onto something else, say, the Bind switch or a slider, freeing up the left stick for camera panning alone.

So many possibilities!

Whenever I am doing FPV, I set up the tripod with the flat screen out there with us and I encourge anyone who wants to, come on over and participate. The pilot always needs an observer and welcomes such help, as well. You can also try out the goggle setup. Lots of fun to be had!

Spring an summer flying seasons are here,  the owner is in the process of moving and this would be a great time to make a deal on this aircraft!

Buy, Sell, Trade or Give Away / Re: Clean-up Request !
« on: May 07, 2017, 03:58:41 AM »
I review this section at least on a weekly  basis, trying to keep it relevant (no dead ads). The person who posts an ad should try to Remove it soon after the specified  item(s) is (are) located or  sold. However, if anyone has put in a Reply  to anything, then the original posting can only be removed after that reply has been removed. Nothing can be removed except by an item's author .... or a Moderator - which would be me.

 So, there is a little bit of judgement involved here. Generally, I can tell that something is no longer relevant and  I will proceed to remove it. If something has been posted for, say, 6 months, it will probably disappear.
I hope you understand and will forgive any unexpecteded deletions. We want this topic to be informative and for postings to be easily noticeable.

Can you post the executive summary?

 :'( Grrrr ...
Oh well, here it is, just for you:
Grab hunk foam. Make marks on foam. Cut foam on or near marks. Grab spray can. Spray paint on foam. Wash spray out of hair, off the cat (or dog), etc. Declare job done!

An old Ontario Land Surveyor whom I worked for used to say, " That's close enough for railroad work." 
(Note: I no longer will set foot on a train.)

 Can you take it from there?  ;D  ;D  ;D

The following is being offered in the hope that other builders of foamboard flying objects can utilize one or more of the described techniques.

I am completing #7 or #8, not sure which (I have a good memory but it is rather short), in my series of foamboard-based deltas. Some have been pushers, a couple are tractors (one converted from being a pusher, the latest being created as a tractor). I have experimented with vertical vectored thrust, vertical + horizontal vectored thrust, etc. A couple of the earlier pushers carried a Mobius, most recently with the 5.8GHz Tx, to do some FPV.

 Whenever I get bored, an uncontrollable itch to hack out something shows up.

 The FPV version worked so well (Wilf flew it and even landed it FPV, so you know it is a magical design!), that I decided to make one primarily for that purpose.

My design criteria, particularly with this plane, is to make things from foamboard that:
a) fly well (stabilizer assisted)
b) are as cheap as possible (not allowed more than 3 foamboards, no exotics such as carbon fibre, i.e., a $5 aircraft structure)
c) doesn't look like it fell off the $Tree truck
d) applies everything I have learned so far (if my incredible memory holds true)

This particular delta is constructed from the Elmers foamboard (sold by Dollarama), rather than the Adams product (sold by $Tree). While this will be slightly heavier than some of my previous ones, it has terrific structural strength without the need for any CF, etc. The paper covering, which is very well bonded to the base foam on the Elmers product, gives high strength and adheres very well, following the particular treatment that I use for strength and for water-proofing. Of course, the weakness with any foamboard is in compression, as it will buckle easily. Hence the choice of a KFM type of airfoil, i.e. multiple (3 in this case) layers at the leading edge, reducing to 2 at perhaps 40% chord and then to single layer a bit further back. There may be some aerodynamic advantages to this airfoil, too, but the jury is still out on that one.

Here is the basic technique. Note: some of the first 3 steps are rather specific to my specific design):

1. I mark and cut the various parts from the foamboard. This includes the 3 wing section layers and the 2 vertical fin layers. In this latest model, I have a multiple layer slab fuselage (3 layers at the front, reducing to double layers aft of the "cockpit"). The wider front fuselage has a real purpose; it allows me to set in a solid, wide base upon which to set the FPV camera/transmitter and at the optimum angle (roughly 10 degrees below horizontal, to start with. If subsequent adjustment is required, the knife and hot glue gun will take care of that nicely!

2. As I intend to create rounded leading edges and need to be able to sand easily, I lightly score just through the paper back perhaps 1 cm from the leading edge on the sides which will be joined together, only. I do this freehand, with a sharp Exacto or cutoff knife or razor blade. This will also be done on the outside leading edges at a later stage of construction.
 After scoring, pick at one edge and gradually peel off the paper strip. The key here is to ensure that you have cut completely through the paper. I find that holding the paper rather flat to the board and slowly pulling at a slight angle toward the front works well. Whatever works for you! If you have a little bit of paper residue here and there, don't worry, it will not prevent gluing and won't be visible anyway

3. To make it easier to more precisely mate the wing surfaces, I pre-fit them and use about 3 round toothpicks down the center line to be my temporary alignment dowels. Poke then through, then remove them until after the contact cement is applied to the surfaces,
Spray the surfaces to be joined with contact cement. I use 3M Super 77 these days, as it is quick and simple. I would likely use brushed on water-based contact cement if I were building a foamy with the paper stripped. Do not overdo it, just a nice even coating, and do not get too close or heavy on the areas you have stripped. Then, after a few seconds, give another light coating near the edges of the joining surfaces; the initial coating will protect the foam from being eaten away.

Do not be alarmed that your foamboard may have bowed somewhat. If you do a good job on mating the sections and then weight them down for a couple of minutes, they should end up perfectly flat.

 Stick your locating dowels (toothpicks) into one of the surfaces.

 Within perhaps a minute of spraying, mate the surfaces. You only get one chance with contact cement, hence the locating dowels!

 Now, back to completely design-independent aspects! Treating all surfaces as follows will greatly strengthen the structure and make it water-proof. As well, you can potentially tart up your $5 aircraft so that it can stand proud out there in full view of the Peanut Gallery. (No one really cares, but, flatter yourself anyway.)

4) I use Minwax Polycrylic Finish Protector, bought at Home Depot in a 1 litre can, to protect/strengthen/finish a surface . This is a water-based clear polyurethane product. I dilute a small amount of it with water in, say, 1:5 ratio and keep it in a small bottle.

 There are a couple of other items which are part of my processing, all of which are water-soluble and compatible with each other. Light spacking compound can be used either by itself or mixed with your water-based craft paint to fill or repair gouges, etc. The edges of the paper covering can be well sealed to the foam, by using just the polycrylic or, as I now prefer, by painting the edge area with Mod Podge (I had some lying around for a decade or more and finally found a good use for it. there are other things you could use, too.

I brush on one or two coats of the thinned polycrylic. This stuff dries in minutes, no need to sand between coats. As with any of these products that I use, you can come back a day or a week later and apply more stuff, it will adhere to the previous application. Nice feature!

 5) Now that you have sealed and strengthened the whole structure, it is time to shape the leading edge, etc. as was done before joining flat sections, I now freehand cut the paper, back perhaps 1 cm from the leading edge and peel off the strip. You will find that it goes much easier now, as the polycrylic treatment has  greatly improved the paper' strength.

 After rough shaping of the leading edge, if you notice that there is some separation of layers, now is the time to fix it. I brush on Mod Podge or whatever and work it into the joint, wiping off excess. Weight the leading edge down (no need to be too aggressive) and leave it alone for an hour or so. If there is still any separation, you can deal with that later with filler and/or paint.

6) You can now carefully sand the leading edge. I use 150 sandpaper, Sand right up onto the paper, if you wish - just try to mostly sand in the direction away from the paper and/or parallel to its edge. You will still have a detectable little ridge at the paper. What to do? Option 1 - don't worry, no one else cares, it won't affect the flight characteristics and you can inform the Peanut Gallery that this is a boundary layer trip strip. (They may not know what you are talking about, but they might even think that you know something about aerodynamics, Just try to keep a straight face. Besides, it may actually be true!). Option 2 - get serious and really clean it up, per the next step, so that the joint will be practically invisible.

 With the shaping of the leading edge, etc., complete, let's treat and finish that area. I use thinned spackling compound brushed or scraped on, optionally mixed with whatever paint I may plan to use, and smear it on. Let it dry for several hours, then sand to shape. Repeat as you see fit.

 When I really think I have wasted enough time and effort and beers on this shaping effort, it is time to do the finishing.

7) Apply a couple of coats of polycrilic to the leading edge area, at least past the paper joint and perhaps over the rest of the structure. It will be an insignificant weight, as it is probably 90% water, which evaporates.

8) It's paint time! I use the craft paint (little bottles, from Michaels, Walmart, etc.) and either a small foam brush or decent sized artist's brush. It is cheap and you use surprisingly little. This has previously been thinned down with water, and I keep a small container of water handy to dip my brush into, as needed. I put a puddle of paint on a plastic credit card, dip the brush into that as needed, perhaps dip the brush into water occasionally to thin down the puddle, etc. Take it easy, build up several thin coats, allowing a half hour or more between applications.

 If you now notice some dings or defects, mix up a bit of spackling and paint, then apply it and wait a couple of hours before sanding. Then re-apply paint to entire structure.Do not be alarmed if the paint looks really crappy after applying. Provided that it was well-thinned, it should smooth out and obliterate small brush marks as the water gradually evaporates.

 Apply whatever trim you choose (trim tape or brushed on paint). There, you are done! ... Or perhaps not? If you want a shinier surface, and if you are not completely sick and tired of this project, you can go over the whole thing with another coat of polycrilic.

Now, we are done ... I think!

Aside: I have patched up "real" foam structures, such as some dings on a Fun Cub, using the spackling compound and paint technique. Generally, rattle can paints have a solvent that will attack foam. You can use them - clean the foam with alcohol, then paint it with polycrylic and let dry. Now, it is safe to spray with your rattle can. You can usually avoid the polycrylic step if you are very careful and only lightly spray, holding the rattle can at least a foot away from the foam, let it dry, repeat, etc. If the first coat was evenly and lightly applied, your plane should now be protected from additional spray damage.

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