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Messages - Deerslayer

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Upcoming Events at KRCM and elsewhere / Deseronto Float Fly - July 21
« on: June 22, 2018, 06:52:47 PM »
Great news! Everyone is invited to another Float Fly at the ***NEW***
Deseronto float flying site. Saturday, July 21.

For those who missed the first one, come out for this one. This is an excellent site with unlimited parking and setup area right up to the water's edge.

We expect to get more info very soon regarding some special features. Stay tuned.

General Discussion / Re: New World Speed Record!
« on: June 18, 2018, 09:48:41 AM »
If you have 55 minutes to spare, watch his presentation on the whole topic, at post #13. It includes the background of DS and the evolution of the aircraft involved.

The whole area of transonic flight is one which we would never think about with non-military model aircraft - and certainly not gliders! Good Q & A at the end of his seminar.

General Discussion / New World Speed Record!
« on: June 17, 2018, 08:20:13 PM »
Great achievement, excellent video of something that is almost impossible to track. The discussions in the forum are also interesting and informative.

Thanks for the addition, GG. I did not know of others, outside of the aviation community, that use CorrosionX.

HEY, Brad - do you use it in your marine servicing business?

General Discussion / Re: Need some OD Green solartex
« on: June 14, 2018, 09:03:33 AM »
Solartex used to be my, and many others, favorite covering material many years ago. Nice to see that it is still available.
One of its finest attributes is that it forms a very nice carrying sack to transport the pieces if you have a severe encounter with a tree or the ground ... or so I have been told :)

Another possibility is to use Fibafilm (used to be called Micafilm). I once got some through Leading Edge. It is the highest strength/weight stuff you can get, being a slightly shrinkable Mylar based film with impregnated fibres, smooth on one side, slightly textured on the other. It has no stick-um, so you used something like Balsarite (hard to get now, possibly no longer available), Mod Podge (get at Michaels) or similar adhesive, apply just where needed and use heat iron to activate. If you apply the materia with rough side out, spray or brushed paint will adhere nicely and your plane will look more "fabricy", like the original full scale. If you are interested, I can see if I still have some hidden away in my Cave.

Plans, Projects, Building and Flying Tips / Waterproofing electricals
« on: June 14, 2018, 08:46:40 AM »
Float flying, along with winter flying, is a popular part of our RC flying, especially with electric airplanes. Things can sometimes get a tad damp or messy. There are some simple things that we can do to protect our equipment. Here are a couple of them:

First of all, check out this product, Corrosion-X. On their site is a description, along with a couple of videos. Of particular interest to us would be the one where the whole mess - motor, ESC, battery, receiver, little chopper - are thrown into a fish tank and operated. The FliteTest guys strike again!

This convinced me to try to get some and use it. I have not found a local supplier but managed to get a can from an AME who services all kinds of aircraft and buys the stuff by the case.
Check it out, and let please others know if you find a local or nearby source:

I squirt the stuff liberally into both ends of an ESC and let it drip back out. Do the same to the receiver, if it may be exposed to severe dunking. It wouldn't hurt to do the same with your power connectors, but make sure that they are clean first (use some spray contact cleaner).

What about motors and servos?

Well, you can spray the motor if you like, but there is dubious benefit for brushless motors, as there is nothing to be affected by water - unless you are flying on and around seawater. But, go ahead, if it makes you feel good.

Servos could be sprayed, but again, they are pretty well sealed, with some grease inside and spraying the exterior may not accomplish much. But, it can't hurt. I am one of those people who often repairs servos which have stripped gears. When reassembling them, I apply some DuPont Teflon-based spray-on lube prior to reassembly. I would do that anyway, regardless of whether the servo might be at risk of taking a bath someday.

So, what happens if you drown your plane and rescue it, only to find that nothing seems to work. Narf! You never did anything special to try to make it water resistant. Well, here is what you do:  Give the ESC to me. Buy a new one!
(Just kidding, stay with me and I will try to help you.)

At a recent float fly event, one of our guys submerged the business end of his Fun Cub and it no longer wanted to run.
There is no logical reason why anything should have "burned out", but some electronics probably got a bit upset by seeing a low resistance between some foil etchings or component contacts. So, I got a can of WD40 and sprayed the #1 suspect - the ESC. Despite what many folks think, WD40 is NOT a lubricant! Per its name, it is a Water Displacer. I sprayed from both ends of the ESC, top and bottom and water poured out. We then powered up the system and all was well again! No big surprise here.

Nice. Hey what's that yellow thing tail up in the water?  :P :laugh: ;D

Some guy who thought he was doing a remake of "We all live in a yellow submarine" and got a bit carried away. Stay tuned ... perhaps he will do a re-take at the next float fly.

General Discussion / Re: Need some OD Green solartex
« on: June 11, 2018, 11:24:00 AM »
I you are desperate and in a hurry, what about using some plain covering material, and spray painting it. My Fun Cub has Rustoleum Hunt Club Green, which may pass for Olive Drab, I suppose.

Talk to Martin for better ideas (at least better than any of mine!).

FPV at KRCM / Re: FPV Startup Information and Ideas
« on: June 06, 2018, 08:46:21 AM »
I posted this over in the Optera forum on RCGROUPS, as there is discussion about getting started with an Optera.

Here is another approach to FPV which could be helpful for someone who is starting out, is unable to have a spotter that can actually fly the aircraft if suddenly needed or who may wear glasses (particularly bifocals) and have difficulty in managing the transition back and forth between direct viewing and FPV.

I have a DX9 transmitter. There is a 3D-printed device, very high quality, which clamps onto that specific transmitter and which has an adjustable mount to which you attach a viewing device. Mine is a 7" flat LCD plus 5.8GHz receiver, complete with foldout sun shade. Refer below for more product information.

This allows me to transition between LOS or FPV without having to fiddle with glasses plus goggles and some lighting situations. For instance, I often have a spotter who may not be capable of taking over control, but whose job is to keep the aircraft in sight at all times, watch for competing air or ground traffic during takeoff or landing. The biggest problem I have is that my glasses darken and screen visibility suffers as a result. However, this does work and I use it sometimes, particularly for an airplane where I have a low comfort level going full FPV - such as the Optera, at least so far. As this setup results in the transmitter being extremely unbalanced, I have used a tray and some weight at the bottom end to better balance things. Because I am sitting while flying FPV, this is not a real show-stopper. The balance is a LiPo Velcroed to the Tx which provides additional capacity to the LDX/Rx internal battery, so it is not parasitic weight.

To further deal with reflections onto the screen and the dark glasses problem, I could risk looking really weird and throw a towel over my head and the Tx, like the photographers back in my grandparents' day!

Here are the items mentioned:

Deluxe Spektrum DX9 LCD Monitor Mount from - $45 USD

Eachine LCD5802D 5802 5.8G 40CH 7 Inch FPV Monitor with DVR Build-in Battery from - $125 USD

General Discussion / Throttle Cut - One More try!
« on: June 01, 2018, 06:10:40 AM »
Once again!

As several of us were sitting nearby, a fellow was working around his unrestrained electric plane on a picnic table and got a surprise - luckily, with no injury to himself or others.

Apparently, he moved the throttle stick and, although he had a throttle cut set up and enabled, the motor started anyway. His wrist was very close to the prop arc. Others were close to the plane itself.

I encouraged and helped him to set up his Throttle Cut AND Throttle Trim properly.  (Update: I forgot to mention that his Throttle Cut had been assigned to the "I" switch, the MOMENTARY button!) Then, we confirmed it by thoroughly testing it.

Please, folks, do something about this on your electric models before someone gets seriously injured!

Before instructing or helping anyone, why not take a minute to ensure that your client has a proper Throttle Cut set up, or help them to set it up. Prove it before flight!

 And, wouldn't this be a good time to ensure that your power failsafe works properly, as well?

 Here is a reprint of what I posted many months ago regarding proper setup, for Spektrum radios. If you do not understand, or if you disagree with this, please contact me and we will upgrade it.  Taranis, Graupner, Futaba are also in common use at our field. For other than Spektrum radios, perhaps others will add appropriate procedures.

 First, decide which common switch you plan to use for ALL of your models.

Set the Throttle Cut value to -100%. Spektrum has a default of -130%, but this is a very bad idea for electrics. Why? Some ESC's "auto-learn" the Throttle channel endpoints. They are not very consistent across brands; if your ESC "learns" -130% as the new zero point, as soon as you disengage the Throttle Cut, the motor may start! This has happened to me and to countless others that I know of. While you are at it, go into the appropriate Servo setup menu and disable the Trim (set = 0) for Throttle. That will ensure that you haven't left the throttle Trim advanced and then release the Throttle Cut, resulting in starting the motor. Or, inadvertently programmed your ESC to an undesired range.

Glow and Gas:
 Set things up such that activating Throttle Cut will drive the channel to your kill point. The -130% may be OK, with leaving the Throttle Trim enabled. With our IC engines, we tend to use Throttle Trim at least on some occasions, so you may want to leave its sensitivity at the default (setting = 5?) or somewhat less.

If someone wants help with this, PLEASE ask one of the Instructors or experienced pilots. This is a serious issue and everyone is responsible to ensure that injuries do not occur due to misunderstood technology or lack of attention.

General Discussion / Spektrum history
« on: May 01, 2018, 05:57:33 AM »
Many of us know of, and have received help directly from, Andy Kunz. He is the team leader for Spektrum's Development Team, that fellow who seems never to sleep!

On several occasions, like other customers, I have placed a query regarding a function or problem and received an almost immediate response -  typically within an hour! Where else can you get that kind of help?

Some of us find the product line and naming of Spektrum radios to be rather strange and confusing, especially the reuse of portions of the model names. For example, which DX7 are we talking about? What is the difference between the "Stealth" or "Black" version and the original DX9?

Well, here is Andy's summary of where we are and how we got here:

General Discussion / Re: Blue Origin
« on: April 30, 2018, 04:46:05 PM »
Meanwhile, here is a great video which shows the simplified version of the dynamics involved in launching/retrieving such vehicles as Blue Origin and the SpaceX boosters.
This fellow has a number of great ideas and models. What he has done with this "rocket" and its stability systems is pretty remarkable.
He knows how to explain things well. Enjoy!

General Discussion / Re: Blue Origin
« on: April 30, 2018, 06:03:29 AM »
Here is the mission:

General Discussion / Re: Blue Origin
« on: April 29, 2018, 08:55:53 PM »
Dang! I missed it, even though I knew it would be live streamed.

This is quite a feat, a real competition with SpaceX. I have followed both of these projects closely for many months, even get periodic updates directly emailed from my "good buddy" Elon Musk and associates. Seeing the concurrent landings of the 2 boosters from the SpaceX launch was so incredible! Blue Origin is going to be pretty amazing, also. 

Buy, Sell, Trade or Give Away / Re: OMP 60" Sbach Electric For Sale
« on: April 26, 2018, 11:15:28 AM »
Hey gary, what is looking to get for this price wise?

$300, firm.

The servos, motor, esc, receiver alone are worth that much! I was tempted to keep it for myself but it falls outside of my current field of interest. These are great aerobatic planes, suitable for any reasonably experienced sport flier and an excellent 3D machine, as well.

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