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Messages - Deerslayer

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Good work D. Nice too see someone actually building with balsa and fabric. This will be a nice airplane, for sure. I have seen the full scale replica fly at Rhinebeck and it is an amazingly fast, quick to maneuver and sharp looking machine.

BTW, how do you keep such a neat work area?

Is the Field Available? Who is Flying Today? / Re: Saturday - Yay!
« on: December 09, 2017, 03:15:35 PM »
Thanks , Dwayne, for getting that nice fire going and for being my FPV spotter. It was a good, if brief, day. Hope you behave yourself at wifey's staff party!

Is the Field Available? Who is Flying Today? / Saturday - Yay!
« on: December 09, 2017, 05:45:09 AM »
Lookin' good!
Dwayne, are you ready? You know the drill - spring to life, choke down some brecky, rush out to the Toyground, and get to be the OFS, then lay claim to Flypaper Corner. The rest of our motley crew will join you before you have used up all of the fun. You da Man , D!

General Discussion / Re: Servos - how they work
« on: December 06, 2017, 12:14:07 PM »
In my experience, it is almost always the second gear from the top. They tend to split when over-torqued. There may also be other gears with damage. Sometimes, this is from the initial breakage up top, with teeth getting jammed into other gears. I, too, have an extensive collection of unuused gears! As a mechanical engineer, I cannot bear to throw out some of Man's greatest products; they are bound to come in useful someday, right?
This is another good insight into how servos work. In particular, starting at around  the 4:20 mark, you will see the typical damage that I usually encounter. On my Heron, very poor quality connectors from Multiplex were eventually found to have caused thrashing and subsequent damage to several servos. The servos would be driven rapidly onto their internal mechanical stops, splitting the second gear and grinding other gears with the broken teeth.

I found HiTec gears at Leading Edge. A set usually costs a significant fraction of a new servo but it is still worth fixing. HK gearsets for the XT900 cost less than a buck - of course, the whole servo costs only about $3.

Sometimes you run into an unusual servo, such as the red "Tiny" ones on my Multiplex Heron. I discovered that they are HiTec, so LE has replacement gearsets for about $6. Until you get into really large and expensive servos, most likely they all come out of the same one or two factories.

 Nylon gears really require little or no lubrication. I give the assembly a quick shot of my DuPont lube with Teflon (available at Lowes), but just about anything will do the job.

General Discussion / Servos - how they work
« on: December 06, 2017, 06:34:27 AM »
Here is an excellent and easy to understand video that shows what goes on inside that tiny electronics package in every servo. There are other videos that depict the mechanical actions. Sometime, grab an old servo and pull it apart to see for yourself. I have repaired many servos, as most likely cause of problems is gear damage due to binding or otherwise overstressing the system; for most servos, from the cheap Hextronic ones through to the most expensive, you can buy the gear train and spend a few minutes to restore one to new (sometimes better than new!) condition.

The attached document was prepared by the Zone Director and Club Presidents.

Buy, Sell, Trade or Give Away / Re: Electric Foamies and gear for sale
« on: December 02, 2017, 09:15:40 AM »
Any idea what the Parkzone foamie is?
Why are you up so early.
Note that my airbrush ad now has a price on it, somehow I missed that.Is there any way to contact the people that viewed the ad?

Parkzone foamie - I don't know what it is, suggest you  call him.
I am always up early - somtimes 0400, more often 0500, occasionally sleep in until 0530! (In my working days, I struggled to get up by 0700, scramble around and get in to work by 0730 - what a life!)
There is no way to tell who has read something. I suggest that you put a Reply in to announce the price.

Buy, Sell, Trade or Give Away / Electric Foamies and gear for sale
« on: December 02, 2017, 05:02:47 AM »
Hi Gary,

Would you please look after posting this for Jim?




From: Jim Lancastle

Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2017 5:06 PM

To: Rolly

Jim Lancastle is leaving the hobby and has some good stuff for sale.









LI-PO'S .. 4 1300 Mah ... AA'S FOR RADIOS






JIM LANCASTLE   613-389-8874 or email

FPV at KRCM / Wilfs Simple Pan/Tilt System
« on: November 28, 2017, 07:48:05 AM »
Wilf has taken a slightly different approach. Here is his very neat Pan/Tilt system, as mounted on his new Sky Mule (attached pictures).

Some of the differences between his and mine:

I use standard Turnigy 5g servos hot glued onto the camera platform. At least at this time, my system uses a base which can be Velcroed onto whatever plane I want. This is the most compact and adaptable arrangement I could come up with.

Wilf uses Turnigy 180 degree sweep servos, one being mounted into the camera platform for Pan while the other is mounted into the base, to Tilt the camera platform itself. The Pan servo may be useful for gazing around to extreme angles. Tilt would likely never require much movement but, hey, he had these servos itching to be put to use, so ...! His system is slightly less compact than mine in some ways. He solidly mounts most of the servo into a cut-out in the plane, so it is less versatile, i.e., more effort to change to a different plane. However, he gets a more solid mount and his Tilt mechanism, I think, works out to be better than mine.

The other difference is that Wilf's system has actually been flown, while mine is still "ridin' the pine" as the hockey players say.   :(

A long time ago, Flypaper gave me a couple of little solid state gyros from helicopters. I plane to set one in between the receiver and one of the two axes, probably Tilt to start with. My Fun Cub is one of my test vehicles and I will probably try my Pan/Tilt system on it first.
I already use 7 channels of the DX9, so that leaves me with 2 for this camera system. No stabilizer for the plane, so having one or both of my camera system's axes stabilized may be worthwhile.

Wilf also has a couple of these little gyros kicking around, so he will probably beat me to trying this out, too!

General Discussion / Re: RIP Gord
« on: November 25, 2017, 09:01:21 AM »
Here are a few pictures I dug up from recent years. I may have more from long ago, I hope, and will post them.

Others are strongly encouraged to post their pictures!

At this sad time, we have to remember and fondly recall what he got from his hobby. Don't be afraid to laugh.  He got a great deal of pleasure from bringing smiles to others' faces - some of his flying contraptions sure did!

General Discussion / Re: RIP Gord - Obituary
« on: November 25, 2017, 08:52:57 AM »

General Discussion / Re: RIP Gord
« on: November 23, 2017, 04:23:39 PM »
Gord Clifford was not my good friend ...

Gord was my GREAT friend! I would like to share some thoughts with anyone who knew him and who might care to read on.

 My son Dan and I met him about 30 years ago, when we first joined KRCM. This unique fellow seemed to live on Pepsi and cigarettes and repaired small engines for a living and also for a hobby. Interesting character!  Later on, we learned that he was one of the 6 flyers who had pooled resources to purchase "our" flying field.

 Perhaps twenty years or so ago, he retired from his full-time job as a mechanic and general fixer-up of things mechanical so that he could spend his waking hours messing around with model airplanes. A lot of his energy transferred over to working continuously, often physically, to make our club better. He also gave up smoking, so apparently it was down to Pepsi for sustenance. On very rare occasions, such as at a Fun Fly, we might catch him eating a hot dog!

 Some may not realize the extent to which Gord read, and retained, anything related to aviation. During our many sessions of hangar flying, I was amazed and impressed with his extensive knowledge. Apparently he had a large collection of old aviation books and you almost thought that he knew many of the famous pilots.

 Very early on, we realized that this guy probably had forgotten more about engines and a few other mechanical things than most of us could ever expect to learn. When anyone encountered seemingly insurmountable problems with an engine, the folks in our Club had a standard response, "Go ask Gordy". Success rate? Pretty close to 100%, in my view.   

 The very first "giant scale" airplanes started to appear about thirty years ago, usually powered by converted chainsaw engines and the like. Gord was always on hand to help and sometimes to modify those beasts for model use. I have known him to take on a wicked repair job, spend long hours repairing and debugging and then return a nice working unit to a grateful owner. No charge!

 During my time at KRCM, hundreds of individuals have belonged to this Club. It would be hard to name someone who Gord had not helped. He was especially good with younger or new participants, having great patience and skills at imparting advice and knowledge. Some of us owe a lot to him.

 I saw dozens (hundreds?) of Gord's flying machines. I rarely saw a store-bought one that, right out of the box, he hadn't taken the knife to, saw or glue gun to bring it up to his standards. He just could not leave things alone!

 He really came into his own when he discovered the magic of electric power, foamboard and hot glue. Ideas quickly became wonderful things. He is famous for his many UFOs (Unusual/Unidentifiable Flying Objects). Most of them flew, many flew incredibly well and provided hours of entertainment for himself and others. Great times were had, as Flypaper performed, while the hoots and hollers poured forth from the Peanut Gallery. I think he enjoyed this as much as anything else in his days at the field.

 Gord was well into his 81st year. In the past, certain things that he had done or had happen to him he would refer to as being "a hundred years ago". After awhile, it made you wonder - could he really have been ...? Nah ...

 Today, I went out to our flying field and put up a flight. I thought about Gord. I did not go out there to mourn him but I did miss his company. I was doing exactly what he was able to do for the best part of his life and what he would want us all to do. Carpe Diem!

 Gord "Flypaper" Clifford. He was one of a kind. I sure am going to miss him. When someone asks a tough question, I will no longer be able to say, "Ask Gordy". We are on our own now. Thanks for your time, Gord!

Plans, Projects, Building and Flying Tips / Re: The Wonder of Drywall Tape
« on: November 22, 2017, 10:03:44 AM »
 Still on the topic of drywall tape:
I found a great way to prepare patches or hinges and to keep them on hand.

1. Lay down a strip of drywall tape on parchment.
2. Dribble some hot glue liberally onto it, crosswise, in several strips.
3. Lay down another strip of parchment on top.
4. Using a covering iron, smooth out this sandwich as much as you can. Don't worry,
    you will not damage either the parchment, the hot glue or the drywall tape.
5. Let it cool down for 5 minutes or so, then peel back one side of the parchment.
   Check to see if it looks like the entire section has been covered. If spots are missed,
   apply more hot glue in that general area.
6. Replace the parchment you removed, perhaps with fresh, and set it down again.
7. Repeat Step 4 and 5 until you are satisfied that there is a smooth, filled tape.
8. Flip the sandwich over and iron the other side.

 What you now have is a composite material (fibreglass strands and glue) that is thin, rubbery
and ready to apply to something.

 When you are finished, you can either leave your sandwich as is, or, pull off the parchments,
replace with fresh pieces and trim the resulting new sandwich. Now, you have a nice piece
of material, ready for use, easy to store. It cuts easily with scissors. Just lay it onto the target surface, no additional
glue required, then use a hot knife or spatula or iron to seal it down. Wipe away any excess glue
and you have a really neat repair, or a killer hinge!

Plans, Projects, Building and Flying Tips / Re: The Wonder of Drywall Tape
« on: November 19, 2017, 12:13:36 PM »
Very interesting idea about using parchment paper.
 I'm still thinking there's a better hinge idea to come. I do like a mechanical hinge because sooner or later my DW tape hinges shear off, even with the hotglue line.
Because we use foam to build, pin hinges only work for me if you reinforce them top and bottom. The flat mini hinges eventually pop off.
I'm working on it, maybe we can patent it .
On my recent builds, 2 flying wings using Elmers (Dollarama) foamboard and 2 made from the black foamboard (Dollarama), I use paper hinges. In other words, the paper that was already on the foamboard.

The black foamboard's paper is extremely well bonded to the foam, more so than the Elmers white. I use my break-off blade knife to carefully, during multiple passes, cut down MOST of the way into the foam. Then, I break the resultant line at the edge of the table. After that, I cut the bevel on the fixed surface, not the control surface, again being careful not to cut the paper joint. If you do happen to nick it, or cut a short length, it won't matter, as the whole thing will be stronger than needed. Then, I use a long sanding tool and sand the excess or wobbly foam so that there is a decent straight bevel and the surface can move freely.

 The final step is to seal these cut edges. Quickly run a trail of hot glue, using a high heat capacity gun, along the hing area and immediately scrape it with a scrap of foamboard or a plastic card. You will leave a nice thin film of glue across the hinge itself and will have secured the paper to the foam. Or, you could just paint the whole cut area with Mod Podge, etc., or with the polycryllic I use to waterproof and finish the whole aircraft.

 As this is all done on the underneath side of the hinge, the top will be perfect, with no evidence of the hinge, apart from its bend line! Very low resistance and completely sealed hinges make for a highly responsive control requiring minimum servo power. Refer to the attached picture, bottom view of hinge.

Plans, Projects, Building and Flying Tips / The Wonder of Drywall Tape
« on: November 19, 2017, 08:33:40 AM »
Great stuff - cheap, light, easy to work with, right up there with hot glue for usefulness in the foamology department!

I often use it to make hinges or to repair hinged or damaged areas. If you have to layer up foam or foamboard or such, this is the stuff to use. Having learned about it almost 30 years ago from Gord, I have built several large foam wings with balsa sheeting for small and large glow planes, without setting any spar material in place. Just place some strategically placed strips of drywall tape between the foam and the sheeting to distribute spar and other loading. As well, it can repair a major break in a structure. It has just enough stickum to stay in place.

The following photos show a simple way to create a multi-purpose repair tape:

1. Fasten a strip of the drywall tape to some parchment paper used for baking. That stuff is impregnated with silicone and neither melts, burns or sticks to anything.

2. Apply a light coating or some streams of hot glue to the tape.Don't overdo it, you will be spreading it out into a thin layer and if you run short, you can apply more as needed. My glue gun is an ancient, heavy duty Bostich fellow that has high heat capacity and a nicely formed tip that stays hot enough to re-melt glue.

3. Using the side of the glue gun tip, gradually spread and smooth out the glue. You want to just fill the open weave and leave a film coating across the whole thing on. If you get too aggressive, or if the glue is not hot enough, you will shift the fibreglass threads around and mess up your structure. Drywall tape is not actually woven, the threads are merely criss-crossed and lay in place due to the trace amount of stickum in them

4. Pick up your tape from its parchment paper backing. The underneath side should be shiny smooth. Cut it as desired - either knife or scissors work well.

 To apply a patch or to create a hinge, just lay the section onto the foam,  foamboard, balsa or whatever and apply heat with the side of your glue gun or, as I simetimes do, with a hotknife. (Aside: My hotknife is what looks like a  woodburning or soldering iron with a #11 Exacto blade installed. It has hundreds of hours of great use and I could not build or repair without it!) No need to add any additional glue, what is now in your tape will be sufficient to bond with the surface.

 My experience with drywall tape is that, if you make a hinge and do not have hot glue across the hinge line and/or is you have overdone the heating at the hinge line, it may break if it gets a good shock. If you have done as I suggest and have a completely coated piece, the glue film will add some strength and help to resist a shock loading.

 The final picture in this series shows a reinforcement at the elevon inner junction on a flying wing. Even on full scale aircraft, this junction is a stress riser and the designer has to ensure that it is well reinforced, typically with gussets on top and bottom or other structural features. with a flying wing, if you have an over-stress to the wing or  a hard impact to the nose, there is a high probability that a fracture would initiate at that location and the wing will fail. Been there (model aircraft only, not a real one!)

I hope this gives you some ideas for a rainy or snowy day.

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