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Topics - Deerslayer

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General Discussion / Vortex Generators
« on: January 08, 2018, 10:56:41 AM »
Vortex Generators (VGs) have been around for many decades. I first noticed them on airliners I flew on back around 1970. You may notice them on smaller airplanes, especially of the STOL variety such as some bush planes.

About four years ago, my son started flying a Cessna 206 floatplane for his client. He installed a VG kit on it. The kit was a properly engineered and certified modification, cost $2500, which he installed over the course of a day or so. There was some huge number of these things, epoxied onto the top of the wings and onto the underside of the horizontal stabilizer. Their effect was to improve airflow separation over these surfaces. This resulted in approximately 5 knots lower stall speed or could allow a higher payload capacity. Floatplanes often have to squeak into, or hop out of, very confined areas with nasty trees, etc., in close proximity. The VGs were the one thing that could be done to improve things.

At that time, I became interested in finding out the science of VGs and how their effects are investigated and quantified. The information is out there, and there is fluid dynamics math, but some of it left me a bit bewildered.  I like pictures and videos! (Be patient, there is one coming up shortly...)

More recently, VGs started showing up on RC models. The Visionaire, Carbon Z Cub, Scimitar, all of which I have owned, are just a few that come to mind. Do they work at this small scale and low Reynolds Numbers? Hard to quantify, but experienced pilots report that they do make a difference, at least on some airfoil and airframe configurations.

I found this video to be enlightening. The fellow is admittedly not an aeronautical engineer or fluid dynamicist but he has done a terrific job of explaining things and documenting his experiments. The RC plane test near the end is a particularly compelling argument to accept the value of VGs and not just grab the Exacto knife and slice them off (as some amongst us may have done in the past!).

So, please sit back and check out this:

Buy, Sell, Trade or Give Away / F-16 Ducted Fan Kits for Sale
« on: January 07, 2018, 07:35:53 AM »
I have two of these for sale. Dan and I had one a few years ago and can vouch for what a great plane these are. Hand-launched, easy to fly, they are a perfect way to try out electric ducted fan aircraft at a rock bottom cost. To my knowledge, these are no longer available, much to the dismay of the very large group of enthusiasts for the product.

Here is the primary RCGROUPS forum:

Many owners customize their F-16's in appearance and also with other than the original EDF gear - a lot has changed over the past decade. Some of these planes have been built with truly wicked performance packages!  The fan is readily available form Hobby King or elsewhere.

I am asking $45 each, and I would consider something slightly less if sold as a pair.

KRCM Annual Auction - Saturday, February 17, 2018

The annual KRCM Auction will take place at the RCAFA Club, located at the entrance to Kingston Airport, This building is next to the yellow Harvard on the pedestal.

The doors will open at 0900 hours.

Registration will begin shortly thereafter.

Guests will have lots of time to set up their stuff, check out the offerings, register and relax.

The Auction action will begin by 1100 hours.

We expect to wrap things up by mid-afternoon.

There is no charge to display your items or to participate in the Auction. KRCM receives 10% commission on all sales.

Accounts can be settled up at any time if you have to leave early.

The RCAFA bar is open all day but bring your own sandwich, etc.

The usual 50/50 draw proceeds will go to the RCAFA Club.

This is always a well-attended, fun-filled and exciting event. We host folks from throughout the Zone G region - Trenton, Cornwall, Ottawa, etc.

Come on out and enjoy the day!

Plans, Projects, Building and Flying Tips / Balancing Stuff
« on: December 14, 2017, 11:35:19 AM »
At least some folks make an effort to balance their props. Others just trust that things are OK as bought - count me in that sorry lot! I use APC props exclusively, unless something else was provided with the airplane I bought. I find them to be very high quality and well balanced. I have had a little, relatively unused, balancer thingy lying around in my flight box for "about a hundred years" (a FlyPaperism). Then, a couple of years ago I sprung for a more expensive and capable unit. Well, I had paid for it so I just had to try it on several of my APC props; I never could determine that I needed to do anything to improve them. Meanwhile, I got the Crack Beaver and its somewhat unusual props. When I checked them, they needed a LOT of balancing! So, perhaps buying the balancer was worthwhile, after all?

What about balancing electric motors? What about the balance of the whole motor+adapter+prop assembly? Well, I came across this very interesting article. He uses an iPhone app to do this. I have an Android tablet and phone, but, there are several apps available for Android which can do vibration or seismic analysis.

I hope someone else finds this interesting and perhaps even useful:

General Discussion / Bulk Orders
« on: December 11, 2017, 08:54:53 AM »
Occasionally, two or more flyers get together to order items from places such as Hobby King, Banggood, etc. It can get a bit messy estimating what it all may cost and later on, sorting out who owes exactly what. Attached is a spreadsheet that I created and offer to anyone else to use. 

Caveat! Although it has been thoroughly tested and I trust it, I cannot guarantee it. If you use it, check the results carefully to ensure that it is correct. This is a tool, not a replacement for your own judgement. If you find a problem, please Reply in here so that I may correct it.


1. Download the attachment. I use OpenOffice and have saved it in as an older Excel file, so it should be readable by any spreadsheet package. If not, let me know and I can provide other versions.

2. Play around with it.
 The cells marked in RED are available for you to fill out. If your order is priced in CA$, leave the Exchange Rate as 1.0 and enter the Item Costs under the US$ -  everything ends up in CA$ anyway. If it is a USA order, set the exchange rate, e.g., .71 on a recent order I processed.
 Leave the BLACK cells alone. The one exception may be under the Shipping/Handling distribution. For example, one fellow orders a kit, or perhaps some LiPos, while another one or more just order some servos or other small stuff. I would divide the  Shipping/Handling
total charges in a fair manner and place those amounts into those cells.

3. If you have played around with this Template, make sure you do not Save it, else some future use may result in a garbage result due to an item or formula having been modified.

 If there are more Items or Buyers than have been set up on this sheet, it could be modified - very carefully! Perhaps it would be better to simply start a second sheet to handle the excess Items or Buyers. Then you divide the Brokerage, GST/HST and Shipping/Handling charges between the two sheets.

 Sometimes, I think that I might want to order something from Supplier X, but do not need it right away or would like to combine my items with someone else. I go to that site and add my stuff to my "Cart", then leave the site. Yes, I will likely get pestered once or twice that I have an incomplete order. I just ignore that, for now. Later on, another person(s) wants something and we decide to place a bulk order. I encourage him/them to do the same thing, i.e., stock up his/their "Cart". Then, if he/they can scrape out and email me a copy, I can go to my "Cart", add his/their stuff, get the estimated Shipping Charges, etc. and transpose the details to the spreadsheet. When we all agree,
I process the order. Upon delivery, I check and update the spreadsheet to reflect the final Exchange Rate, Taxes, etc. 

General Discussion / Servos - how they work
« on: December 06, 2017, 06:34:27 AM »
Here is an excellent and easy to understand video that shows what goes on inside that tiny electronics package in every servo. There are other videos that depict the mechanical actions. Sometime, grab an old servo and pull it apart to see for yourself. I have repaired many servos, as most likely cause of problems is gear damage due to binding or otherwise overstressing the system; for most servos, from the cheap Hextronic ones through to the most expensive, you can buy the gear train and spend a few minutes to restore one to new (sometimes better than new!) condition.

The attached document was prepared by the Zone Director and Club Presidents.

Buy, Sell, Trade or Give Away / Electric Foamies and gear for sale
« on: December 02, 2017, 05:02:47 AM »
Hi Gary,

Would you please look after posting this for Jim?




From: Jim Lancastle

Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2017 5:06 PM

To: Rolly

Jim Lancastle is leaving the hobby and has some good stuff for sale.









LI-PO'S .. 4 1300 Mah ... AA'S FOR RADIOS






JIM LANCASTLE   613-389-8874 or email

Plans, Projects, Building and Flying Tips / The Wonder of Drywall Tape
« on: November 19, 2017, 08:33:40 AM »
Great stuff - cheap, light, easy to work with, right up there with hot glue for usefulness in the foamology department!

I often use it to make hinges or to repair hinged or damaged areas. If you have to layer up foam or foamboard or such, this is the stuff to use. Having learned about it almost 30 years ago from Gord, I have built several large foam wings with balsa sheeting for small and large glow planes, without setting any spar material in place. Just place some strategically placed strips of drywall tape between the foam and the sheeting to distribute spar and other loading. As well, it can repair a major break in a structure. It has just enough stickum to stay in place.

The following photos show a simple way to create a multi-purpose repair tape:

1. Fasten a strip of the drywall tape to some parchment paper used for baking. That stuff is impregnated with silicone and neither melts, burns or sticks to anything.

2. Apply a light coating or some streams of hot glue to the tape.Don't overdo it, you will be spreading it out into a thin layer and if you run short, you can apply more as needed. My glue gun is an ancient, heavy duty Bostich fellow that has high heat capacity and a nicely formed tip that stays hot enough to re-melt glue.

3. Using the side of the glue gun tip, gradually spread and smooth out the glue. You want to just fill the open weave and leave a film coating across the whole thing on. If you get too aggressive, or if the glue is not hot enough, you will shift the fibreglass threads around and mess up your structure. Drywall tape is not actually woven, the threads are merely criss-crossed and lay in place due to the trace amount of stickum in them

4. Pick up your tape from its parchment paper backing. The underneath side should be shiny smooth. Cut it as desired - either knife or scissors work well.

 To apply a patch or to create a hinge, just lay the section onto the foam,  foamboard, balsa or whatever and apply heat with the side of your glue gun or, as I simetimes do, with a hotknife. (Aside: My hotknife is what looks like a  woodburning or soldering iron with a #11 Exacto blade installed. It has hundreds of hours of great use and I could not build or repair without it!) No need to add any additional glue, what is now in your tape will be sufficient to bond with the surface.

 My experience with drywall tape is that, if you make a hinge and do not have hot glue across the hinge line and/or is you have overdone the heating at the hinge line, it may break if it gets a good shock. If you have done as I suggest and have a completely coated piece, the glue film will add some strength and help to resist a shock loading.

 The final picture in this series shows a reinforcement at the elevon inner junction on a flying wing. Even on full scale aircraft, this junction is a stress riser and the designer has to ensure that it is well reinforced, typically with gussets on top and bottom or other structural features. with a flying wing, if you have an over-stress to the wing or  a hard impact to the nose, there is a high probability that a fracture would initiate at that location and the wing will fail. Been there (model aircraft only, not a real one!)

I hope this gives you some ideas for a rainy or snowy day.

FPV at KRCM / Simple Pan/Tilt System
« on: November 18, 2017, 09:34:36 AM »
Wilf and I obtained Foxeer cameras from Banggood. Wilf has used his quite a bit, mine awaits its first flight. I wanted a Pan/Tilt capability to play around with, something that was simple and cheap and compact.

I came up with the system depicted here, after some mockups in foamboard and old  hotel room plastic keys. This setup is made from thin plywood, hot glue and a patch of Velcro. I had some 5 gram servos lying around, which are ideal.

My idea is that this can simply be mounted on any of my planes, connected to a  5.8 GHz transmitter and probably with an OSD in between those two items.

As for how it can be used: On a flying wing, where there is no Rudder, that channel can be connected to the Pan servo. The Tilt servo, which is less likely to be used, can be connected to a knob or slider, or even to a 3-position switch.

On a plane which has a Rudder, there are several options for the Pan function: Use a separate channel and either control it via a knob or slider, or, mix that channel to the Rudder in whatever proportion is desired and then set up a Flight Mode to enable that function, possibly even disabling the Rudder itself during this Mode.

As for the Tilt function, if you were using a sailplane, then you could have the Throttle stick available to be mixed in to become the Tilt control, with or without the Motor enabled. I would likely do this with a Flight Mode that sets the aforementioned "Rudder" stick movement to control Pan and the "Throttle" movement for Tilt. This means that your Left stick is the camera controller while the Right stick remains as the aircraft flight controller.

If you think about it, when you fly in a real aircraft, your vision will tend to slightly lead any turn you initiate. (You do more extensive movement when performing a clearing turn prior to doing any aerobatics  or during flight in busy skies, such as thermalling in a gaggle with other sailplanes). During the resultant bank, you have already tilted this field of vision, even if you did not move your head up or down at all. At least in the case of my Mobius, with its original lens, it is already wide angle, so unless I wished to look back over the tail, I probably need very little movement in either the Pan or Tilt plane. What I can envision the Tilt  for is to perhaps have a fixed, slightly downward, setting that would be useful while setting up an approach - or possibly to help figure out where I am if I am FPVing and get lost!

Plans, Projects, Building and Flying Tips / The Power of Magnetism!
« on: November 16, 2017, 07:04:06 AM »
Do you, like me, get tired of hunting for that bolt, nut or other small metal item that you just removed from something and which jumped off the bench? Or worse still, it fell into the grass or dirt at the field and, of course, it is like no other one that you have immediately available!

I have a collection of the small rare earth magnets in different sizes, which I got at Princess Auto for a pittance. They have many uses, including canopy retention on airplanes, etc. Here is another:

 Either on a temporary or permanent basis, I stick them onto one or more of my commonly used screwdrivers and sometimes on some other metal tool or object. That way, when I am removing a screw, I just let it stick to the magnet on the tool until needed.  Depending upon the task at hand, my screwdriver looks like it has a swarm of bees clinging to it by the time everything is ripped apart. No more crawling around on the floor or the grass looking for an escapee!

VIDEOS and PICTURES from KRCM Events and Activities / Microwing
« on: October 28, 2017, 09:05:27 AM »
 This little mashup shows some test fights of Gary's MicroWing. This cool little machine costs next to nothing in time, effort or cash  to build and flies exceptionally well. Within this video are a couple of demos of my (original idea?) lawn chair launch technique. (I am working on doing lawn chair landings in the near future, hopefully of the non-destructive kind. Please stay tuned!)
 I am building another one at this time, because ... ? Who needs an excuse, when you are having fun, eh!

 Thanks again to Wilf and Harold for the video assistance.

General Discussion / Puddle Flying
« on: October 23, 2017, 07:22:08 AM »
I have a rather large puddle to fly from, Lake Ontario! If you are not as fortunate, do not give up, there is still hope. I found this little video to be rather fun and uplifting. Enjoy!

General Discussion / Huckoween - summary, etc.
« on: October 19, 2017, 08:31:47 AM »
 We had an outstanding first ever Huckoween this past Saturday. I will attempt to summarize some aspects of it.

 First of all, this was a significant, well attended event which had NO outlay of KRCM effort or financial risks involved. All we had to do was to issue an invite and lay out the welcome mat. No mess to clean up afterward, the only things left behind were a lot of great memories. The ideal fun fly?

There were 22 pilots registered, with just about all of them showing up despite the questionable weather prognosis. For many of them, ths involved a 6+ hour drive each way with airplane trailer in tow. Was it worth it? Of course it was!

 Some thanks are in order:

 Brad organized things, setting up the invite over at   
where you can catch up on the whole affair, including the videos which have been trickling in.
 Our Grounds Maintenance crew went to extra efforts to have this wonderful facility in the best possible shape. The grass was manicured, the clubhouse was all cleaned up (yay, Thomas!) and it was a place to be proud of. Our guests were impressed! Thank you, Marvin and Thomas.
  Food is important. Anyone who wanted some just had to throw in $5 and expect to rip off a couple of hunks of pizza, hand delivered from Capri Pizza in Amherstview, courtesy of Terry and Marilyn. Thank you, folks!
 Brad initiated a 50/50 draw and, as I enjoy pestering people and begging for money, I set out to scoop up some coin for the cause. These folks really do like to support any club which welcomes them, as the results showed. Tickets were $5 each, 4 for $15 or 5 for $20 (I had to talk fast so that the customer didn't have time to do the math of that latter part of that "deal"). When the dust settled, the winner (Mike "it only takes one ticket to win" Siemonsen) took home $195 or thereabouts, with the same amount being turned over to KRCM. Thank you to all who participated.

 The only expense incurred was to pump out the Portapottie, something that would have to be done this fall anyway. Thanks, Rolly, for thinking to get this done.

 There was a lot of remarkable flying done on Saturday in rather fine weather. None of this prevented anyone in our Club from flying, if they cared to. I flew some of my small stuff over at the side several times. The little Kwirl autogyro attracted some significant attention - sort of at the opposite end of modelling from the big stuff featured. I had hoped that the Halloween witch, Bubba or something else from the Flypaper collection would have would show up - perhaps next year?

 From what I have heard, these folks would love to come back again - either for another Huckoween or perhaps at some other time. A bit earlier in the Fall, say, late September might be better timing, or perhaps next Spring? Our field is open year round, the weather is usually good and predictable by April and it is a long stretch from that time until our Fathers Day Fun Fly occurs. Lots of opportunities!

 At the KRCM Meeting this week, great interest was expressed in doing this again!

Plans, Projects, Building and Flying Tips / Steaming Dents Out Of Foam
« on: October 04, 2017, 08:08:35 AM »
This is a technique which I have been using. I even thought that I had invented it! On several recent occasions, I heard folks asking for advice about this.
I came across this write-up, with pictures, and thought that it would be useful to post here:


 In cases where there is some major damage, say, near the leading edge of a glider wing, you may not be able to completely heal it using this technique. You may even have had to splice in a chunk of foam and then try to conform the repair to desired shape. I had to do such a repair on a large foam sailplane canopy after it popped off and encountered the prop on its way out.

 Light spackling compound is your friend! It weighs very little, can be  thinned with water as needed, applied in layers and easily sanded. Give it lots of time to thoroughly dry, don't try to build up huge globs as once, especially if you have mixed any water in. Overnight is a perfect cure time. After sanding, you can paint over it, and the surrounding area, if you wish. My canopy was a real mess, but after repairing and painting (several coats of brushed on water-based acrylic craft paint), it is very hard to tell that it was ever damaged.

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