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Messages - Deerslayer

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Buy, Sell, Trade or Give Away / Giant Scale Custom Plane for Sale
« on: August 02, 2018, 09:00:14 AM »
This would be a good way for someone to move up to a large plane, in the Giant Scale class, at minimal cost.

The Aero 120 is large sport plane of my own design, scaled up from a series of smaller, 40-sized ones. It has a Saito 120 4-stroke and high quality metal gear servos. Standard 5 channel radio and regular flight pack are all that is required.

This plane performs just like its 40-size little brothers, it can do all aerobatics and yet is gentle and trainer-like when desired. It has been flown at the Giant Scale events several times. It has a unique aileron/flaperon configuration which, when mixed to elevator, will yield extremely short takeoffs (more like a hop into the air!) and puddle-sized landings, as well as quick roll rate. You can fling it around like a much smaller airplane, or use it as a trainer. It flies beautifully with skis. This would be an excellent float plane, as well. It could easily tow a large banner.

It has never been bruised.

Asking $300, reasonable offers will be considered.

VIDEOS and PICTURES from KRCM Events and Activities / Dormoy Bathtub
« on: July 30, 2018, 10:59:24 AM »
Check this out!

Ken Gilmour has one; however, it's just a bit smaller, more suitable for one of his giant house cats - if he can teach them to fly. A fellow near Kingston had a full size one and Ken has a picture somewhere of the two planes together on the ground. Ken's has flown a couple of times many years ago and he is now refitting it for modern radio, etc. We hope to see it within the next month.

Float Flying at Deseronto / Re: Float Flying Basics
« on: July 26, 2018, 09:24:15 AM »
Are you sure that stuff is rigid enough? The EPP foam in ARF's is more rigid, and is stronger in 'tear-away" resistance. I suppose you could use a thin coat of fibreglass.
It is quite strong. Sands very nicely. Put one layer of Tough tape on the bottom, from tip to the step, for abrasion resistance. Fibreglas, with its epoxy, adds unnecessary weight for little gain over using either Tough tape or just packing tape. A spine of, perhaps 1/4" square balsa along the top centerline, full length, to attach blocks or pads for mounting hardware.

For what the hobby industry charges for floats, it is worth a try to make your own.   Make at least one spare pair, then if yours get broken and hot-glued enough to exceed the Flypaper Golden Ratio, you won't be grounded (or should we say, "watered"?).

Float Flying at Deseronto / Floats Material - Any interest?
« on: July 26, 2018, 06:45:28 AM »

I located a source for 3" thick styrofoam sheets, the kind used in basement insulation. This stuff is ideal for making floats, wings, fuselages, etc. They are rather pricey and come in a much larger size than I would likely ever need.
Cost is $52 + tax for a 2 foot by 8 foot sheet. This is larger than I will be able to transport in my car, so I would end up cutting a sheet, anyway, probably into two 4 foot sections.

Would anyone else be interested in a shared purchase of a sheet?

My immediate need is for a set of 28 inch floats, for which I have already made  the required template for hotwire cutting the blanks. I may make one or more additional template sets for smaller floats. Another alternative is to bandsaw out floats, as this works very well with the pink or blue styrofoam.

Here are a couple of things which you may wish to consider:

1. Always use the same switch for Throttle Cut, regardless of the model. It should/will become part of your mental checklist for any time you handle a model and will be foremost in your mind if you need to quickly kill a motor.

2. On Spektrum radios, I use the A switch, which some folks think of as the "Gear switch" - it may even be labelled as such on some radios. It is easily reachable with my Throttle hand and it is fairly clear of other switches. To set Throttle Cut, this switch is pulled toward me. That way, if the radio gets bumped or I brush against the switch, it will not be released such that the motor can start.

3. But, what if you actually use the "Gear switch", either for retracts or, as is sometimes the case, the so-called Gear or 5 Channel is dedicated to being the Mode switch on a stabilizer or other device? Well, the H switch, over on the other side may be a good second choice. A better solution, I think, is to do a Channel Assign and move that channel's controlling switch over to another switch.

Float Flying at Deseronto / Float Flying Basics
« on: July 24, 2018, 08:21:43 AM »
Perhaps this is a good place to store some floats information, as some of us may be adding floats to existing land-based planes, or upgrading existing setup.

Atttached is the original RCM article by Mr. Cunningham, from several decades ago.

Even with the normal Throttle Cut set up properly (refer to previous posting), some folks are concerned about having  additional protection to ensure that when perhaps their Throttle Cut switch gets bumped while the Throttle stick is partially advanced, the motor will not activate. Not a bad idea for those times when you may be working around the plane on the bench yet it is not convenient or feasible to remove the prop, tie down the aircraft, disconnect power to one of the motor leads, etc.

Here is a very simple solution that will take you about 2 minutes to set up. This is specific to Spektrum but may be similar for other brands:

Choose a switch that you wish to be your secondary means of disarming the Throttle channel. Set up a Mix:

Rate: -100% -100%
Offset: -100%
Trim: Inh
Switch: Switch D ( for example)
In the next line, darken whatever box(s) representing the switch position(s) where you want this safety cut-off to take effect.

Refer to the attached screenshot.

As long as (Switch D here) is in one of the positions (1 or 2 in this example) where this Mix is active, you have disabled the Throttle stick from control of the Throttle Channel. You should have already set the Throttle Trim = 0, via the Trims Menu, so there is no way to move the Throttle Channel away from its -100% or lowest position. Even if you bump your normal Throttle Cut switch. In order to power up the motor, both switches will have to be set in the correct position (0 in this example).

This secondary disarming switch can be either 2-position or 3-position. Just set the position(s) where you want it to disable the Throttle stick.

However, none of this matters if you fail to use it!

Please, folks, do something about this on your electric models before someone gets seriously injured!

Before instructing or helping anyone, why not take a minute to ensure that your client has a proper Throttle Cut set up, or help them to set it up. Prove it before flight!

 Wouldn't this be a good time to ensure that your power failsafe works properly, as well?

 Here is the proper way to set up Throttle Cut on Spektrum radios.  If you do not understand, or if you disagree with this, please contact me and we will upgrade it.  Taranis, Graupner, Futaba are also in common use at our field; perhaps others will add appropriate procedures.

 First, decide which common switch you plan to use for ALL of your models.

Set the Throttle Cut value to -100%. Spektrum has a default of -130%, but this is a very bad idea for electrics. Why? Some ESC's "auto-learn" the Throttle channel endpoints. They are not very consistent across brands; if your ESC "learns" -130% as the new zero point, as soon as you disengage the Throttle Cut, the motor may start! This has happened to me and to countless others that I know of.

Disable the Trim (set = 0) for Throttle. That will ensure that you cannot leave the throttle Trim advanced, release the Throttle Cut and have the motor come to life. Or, have inadvertently programmed your ESC to an undesired range.

Glow and Gas:
 Set things up such that activating Throttle Cut will drive the channel to your kill point. The -130% may be OK, with leaving the Throttle Trim enabled. With our IC engines, we tend to use Throttle Trim at least on some occasions, so you may want to leave its sensitivity at the default (setting = 5?) or somewhat less.

If someone wants help with this, PLEASE ask one of the Instructors or experienced pilots. This is a serious issue and everyone is responsible to ensure that injuries do not occur due to misunderstood technology or lack of attention.

Restraining aircraft is not just for starting!

How many time have you seen someone leave a model, particularly a foamie, sitting on a bench or table outside and then get blown off, possibly getting damaged? Or, worse yet, damaging someone else's property!

If you do have to leave a plane on a table, consider lying it upside down. That way, it is less likely to take off or blow off.

Another thing that many are unaware of is the sudden, severe gust caused by a thermal kicking off, usually from the parking lot. A couple of years ago, as I was taking my glider back to the truck, THREE of my aircraft which were on the ground - 2 foamies and a 40-size balsa were suddenly picked up, lifted over our vehicles and flown around the parking lot about 20 feet in the air, then plunked down upside down. Only minor damage to the 2 foamies, none to the bigger plane. The neighbours Fun Cub was carried around a bit on the ground. It was all I could do to hold onto my glider for a few seconds, on the tailgate, until things settled down. No damage was done to any vehicle.

This has happened many times. On another occasion, a large beach umbrella took off, flailed around in the air and broke my windshield. If that thing had hit someone, there would have been blood!

PLEASE, think about this and take some precautions.

Someone remarked that they thought you would only get this kind of thing on a hot summer day. Incorrect! In both of the incidents mentioned above, it was a cool day, light wind, but the low level atmosphere was moderately unstable. When the parking lot warmed the air, a thermal formed, reached the trigger temperature and a "bubble" or "column" of air suddenly rose. Surrounding air rushed in to take its place, its speed increased by flowing between the vehicles. That's how it happens, folks!   

I have seen full sized sailplanes, weighing upwards of 600 lbs, easily lifted from the ground by this - usually because they were not properly restrained and without having their dive brakes locked open.

If you have not heard of deer ticks and Lyme disease, you should become aware of this problem. As modellers, we spend time in areas where there is exposure to the problem, particularly if we venture into the brush. As well, there are pets around at the field, which can carry the tick to you, into your yard or vehicle and into your home. At least one pet that I know of has been bitten.

During an annual medical, my doctor discussed this, as he is aware that I live and play in the countryside. He removes about a half dozen deer ticks from people per week! Studies show that about 20% of ticks carry the Lyme bacteria. He showed me a small item that he keeps on his keychain. I have ordered one each for several family members. It is available here:,51555&p=67728

There are several fellow modellers whom I know that have suffered from varying degrees of Lyme disease. Fortunately, they recovered after some miserable and long weeks. I am appending a following segment of an article that a local resident supplied to our little newspaper. This individual has suffered extremely for perhaps 30 years, having contracted the disease long before it was recognized in this area. I will not go into details, but you do NOT want to experience ANY of this!

Here is the article (the author's name has been removed, but their effort to inform and warn others is greatly acknowledged and appreciated):


 It is tick season, folks. The cold winter apparently didn't make any difference - if anything the snow cover provided insulation for the eggs. The 'deer ticks' or black-legged ticks carry the Lyme bacteria. They can overwinter or travel on migrating birds, or animals or on the pets of Snow Birds returning from the U.S.
 Walking in the woods or long grass increases the chance that one will hitch a ride on you. They'll wander about on your body for a bit, before deciding to dig in.
 Putting your pant legs inside socks, wearing a hat and long sleeves help somewhat too.
Check your body if you possibly can when you come in from an outing. Try to catch them before they penetrate your skin. If you find one, lift it out gently with a tick lifter - or anything that resembles a tiny fork. Slide it under the body and lift and twist gently. Don't use tweezers if possible, as that squeezes the mouth parts.
 Go to emergency services, with the tick in a clean container. Ask for the tick to be tested and for you to receive the results. (It might take months).
Urgently request a single oral antibiotic preventive dose. Within 48 hours that is deemed a sufficient preventative.
 Do not accept the suggestion that you wait for the 'bull's eye rash' that can result some days later. It is not a guaranteed diagnostic tool and waiting simply allows the bacteria to spread in your body.
Recent reports have suggested that the Black- Legged Tick may also be carrying the "Powassan virus. It's a rare condition that produces symptoms similar to Lyme disease, but more severe, and there's no cure. The disease can lead to encephalitis and
meningitis, and give you permanent neurological issues afterward. And it can act much more quickly than Lyme disease, giving you symptoms within
hours of being bitten by a tick." (Country Life)
 Don't panic. Not all ticks are black-legged ticks, and not all black-legs carry the virus. But take prevention seriously and take action if you find one embedded in your loved ones.
[Editor: despite continuing misinformation, a bull’s eye rash does not always appear when a tick infects a human with Lyme-causing bacteria.]

• Avoid flying by yourself in remote locations such as most r/c fields, back lakes,
etc. Always know where emergency help may be available.

• Let someone else know that you are out flying, including the time you left and
an anticipated return time, as well as your cellphone number.

• Keep a fully charged cell phone in your pocket - not at home or in the car!. This is
particularly important if you must fly by yourself.

• If you go out into the woods to search for an aircraft, let someone know where
you are going and the maximum time you expect to be gone. If there is no one
else around, leave a note on your car window with this information. When you
return, let the person know that you have returned. This is much like a Flight Plan
that the “real” pilots file.

• When preparing a glow or gas plane, tie it down or otherwise secure it. If
someone is helping you, make sure that both parties know what they are doing
and do not make any sudden, instinctive moves to correct a perceived engine

• When preparing, carrying or retrieving an electric aircraft, employ a positive
“throttle lockout” and/or disconnect the power source in the aircraft. Treat
electric-powered aircraft as you would a loaded firearm!

• A full bottle or thermos of fresh water should be part of your field kit at any time.
This can prevent dehydration at any time or to cleanse a cut, if necessary.

• Have access to a simple First Aid kit. Keep a kit or basic materials in your car or
flight box. Take a few minutes periodically to confirm that it is where you think it
is and that it contains some basic materials that you might want.

• Our most likely injury is a laceration due to a prop strike. If you have only one
item available in your kit, it should be a roll of gauze bandage.You have to stop
any bleeding! Everything else can wait.

• You may have to support the injury. Wrap an injured finger and then wrap it to an
adjacent one. For a hand or arm injury, wrap it and then support it in a sling or

• If the injury is serious enough to require immediate professional attention, do not
bother applying any antiseptic; the professionals will have to wash the injury anyway.

• Remember to replenish any items you used from the First Aid kit.

• Watch for shock! Even a minor cut may induce some degree of shock, whereby
you suddenly feel weak, dizzy and/or you may fall. For most injuries, sitting or
lying down and keeping warm and calm will overcome the feeling. Make your
helper aware of your symptoms.

• If you are seriously injured, do not try to drive yourself. Call for, and wait for,
help. There is at least one documented case whereby a modeler sustained a
significant hand injury, started to drive to the hospital, then passed out from
shock while driving and hit a tree. He died! This is where flying alone, especially
in a remote location, magnifies the potential post-injury hazard.

• Make sure someone else knows what has happened. If there is only the injured
person or one other, use a cell phone or neighbour's phone and contact someone else.
Ask them to come out and remain with your gear and the injured person's vehicle.
Update them periodically after you have reached medical assistance.

• When did you have your last tetanus shot? This is a deadly disease. Its cause can
be precisely the kind of conditions that you may have encountered at this
time. Tetanus shots should be renewed every (10?) years – ask your doctor what is
recommended. If this injury requires professional treatment, you should be asked
about your tetanus shots and you may be given one at that time.

• In the event of a major injury, you should call 911, rather than trying to transport
the person. The 4-digit KRCM field address is prominently posted on the bulletin board.
KRCM is quite close to Napanee Hospital. Not only is it closer than Kingston, there is
free parking right at the front door! Everyone should take a minute and learn its location

Buy, Sell, Trade or Give Away / Wanted - Fun Cub or similar floats
« on: July 23, 2018, 09:59:49 AM »
Got at set of unused Fun Cub or similar length floats that you don't need?

I may even have some other floats that you would like to do a swap for.

Float Flying at Deseronto / Introduction to DRFC
« on: July 21, 2018, 07:57:59 PM »
Deseronto Royal Flying Club (DRFC) basic information can be found here:

This Club has just been formed and has already held two informal events. The location is open to its Members at any time.

A number of KRCM Members have now flown there, most of whom have joined the new Club. At $40 annual membership, having year round access to an excellent, quiet location within easy driving distance of the Greater Kingston and Quinte areas, this is really good deal.

Periodically, the Club expects to declare an official Float Fly, with BBQ food being available. As well, it is a good place to buy, sell and swap R/C stuff. Several of us did just that at their second gathering, quite successfully. There is also plenty of room to fly foamy land models. The large open area is not manicured like at KRCM but is quite suitable for hand-launching. There is a large concrete pad, the floor of a former fruit processing plant, which is perfect for a control line pilot to try out. There are no buildings at the site; however, there are shade trees. There is a rescue boat available to Members for any aircraft retrievals.

NOTE: You must be a DRFC Member, or be attending a Float Fly event, to fly here. All activity is done according to specific agreements with the Deseronto town council and Mohawk Airport.

Watch in here, and elsewhere, for announcements of future activities.

If your are already a Member of DRFC, or have questions, or are trying to set up a group to go out and have fun,  please feel free to post in here. Just start a new Topic, below this.

General Discussion / Lemons
« on: July 19, 2018, 12:58:21 PM »
 I have bought many Lemon receivers, with and without stabilizers, going back several years now. Never had a problem with one, nor do I see any issues showing up across the very large world-wide user community (check it out in rcgroups). Range tests done by technical people have shown the Lemons to be unsurpassed, even exceeding the performance of most others. I, and many other, trust them in expensive gliders or FPV aircraft that fly at the limit of one's visual range or even (unintentionally) beyond that distance.

 The user manual for the stab versions is superb, having been written, revised, updated by a couple of true experts within the user group and fully sanctioned by the designer himself. Speaking of which, this fellow designed and enginered the products and follows the group. He has used their input to improve and develop new products. As with most gear, the manufacturer is in Hong Kong.

 Unlike many other suppliers of our stuff, shipping charges are extremely low, the true cost of postage. Typically, you order something, a $3 or so shipping charge is applied and it shows up in your mail within 1 week in a padded envelope, properly sealed in a plastic package.

I just received a 10 channel, DSMX, receiver, 6 days after placing the order. It listed at $26US. It cost me $40 Canadian, period, including postage. No phoney baloney special brokerage fee or other charges. No UPS, DHL or FexEx got their hands on it. Yea, Hong Kong Post and Canada Post!

The local hobby shop now carries Lemons. Or, you can order them direct, online. I have done both. No regrets, either way.

General Discussion / Re: Spektrum SD Cards, Backup
« on: July 18, 2018, 07:28:58 PM »
Airware is the operating system common to the dx18, dx9 and later systems.

When you go into Model Utilities, on of the options allows you to Sort models, i.e., manually  move a model to any place in the list.

As I recall, you have an old dx8. That does not run the modern software, Airware.

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