Please login or register.

KRCM

Author Topic: Hints and Kinks  (Read 1857 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Flypaper 2

  • KRCM Members
  • ***
  • Posts: 663
  • We regret the chances we didn't take.
    • View Profile
Hints and Kinks
« on: July 23, 2014, 09:30:58 AM »
 If your too lazy to go to the hobby shop like me, grab one of the antennas from your old 72 transmitter and put it through the bandsaw or hacksaw. You'll end up with a bunch of 7 1/2 in. chrome plated brass tubes of different sizes that fit nicely into one another.
    If you have more ideas for hints and kinks, put them up here. Maybe make it into a Stinky, or is that Sticky, at the top of the page. ;D
Gord
Hotglue, held together with foam.

Offline ganguy

  • KRCM Members
  • ***
  • Posts: 581
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2014, 08:31:48 AM »
Heck, i was wondering what to do with that old 72. Now I know! The real question here is how did you find out?
Reg
Churchill said: "Success is a series of failures during which one does not lose enthusiasm!"

Offline Flypaper 2

  • KRCM Members
  • ***
  • Posts: 663
  • We regret the chances we didn't take.
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2014, 08:30:39 PM »
I needed a brass tube for my gyrocopter rotor and didn't want to drive all the way over to the hobby shop for an inch of it. Looked around and saw this tube disguised as an antenna staring at me. :o A touch with the bandsaw showed me a bunch of different sized 6 inch chrome plated tubes. ;D Pays to be a junk collector sometimes. :laugh:
Gord
Hotglue, held together with foam.

Offline ganguy

  • KRCM Members
  • ***
  • Posts: 581
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2014, 12:17:05 PM »
LIPO recovery:
The best hint you gave me Gord was how to resuscitate a dead LIPO. I had 5 in the morgue, and was able to get two up to full status, and on the others, I can save two cells each for the smaller planes. As they are all different manufacturers, I can't combine cells to make new 3 cell batteries.
You might want to repeat that process here for others.
Reg
Churchill said: "Success is a series of failures during which one does not lose enthusiasm!"

Offline Flypaper 2

  • KRCM Members
  • ***
  • Posts: 663
  • We regret the chances we didn't take.
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2014, 08:09:30 PM »
Will do Reg.
 If your batt gets too low for the charger to read, Put it on NiCad or nimh until it reads just over 3 volts per cell. then put it on lipo. Watch the voltage carefully as it doesn't take long for the voltage to rise. Put it on balance charge.
Gord
Hotglue, held together with foam.

Offline Deerslayer

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 641
  • Fly hard, Learn stuff, Have fun!
    • View Profile
Foamology 101 - my glue gun mod!
« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2015, 04:58:58 PM »
Since I enrolled in the Flypaper College of Aero-nut-ical Knowledge, I have been learning a lot. Just recently, I made a modification that greatly improves my gluing proficiency (Yes, Master, the Grasshopper is gradually improving):

Although I initially did this on the Alene glue gun, using one of its supplied detachable tips, it can be done on any gun. For example the attached picture shows my ancient $5 modified glue gun.


1. Get a piece of copper fuel tubing (we slimer drivers always have chunks of lying around).
2. Remove the existing tip tubing from the gun. You may have to drill it out.
3. Drill a new hole to enable an interference fit of the new fuel tubing.
4. Cut the fuel tubing such that it will project perhaps 1/2" or more longer than the original. One end will be a straight 90 degree cut, the other will be at, say, 30 to 45 degrees, approxinately. (the Flypaper TLAR method).
5. Clean up both ends, removing any burrs, inside and out. Clean it up with steel wool or such. Outside edges should be chamfered or rounded.
6. Force fit the new tube into the head. If the head is detachable, use your drill press. If you cannot force fit the tubing, drill a slightly larger hole, fit the tubing and use some JB Weld to secure it (Harold Jaeger's idea!). The JB is not softened at the temperatures present in the glue gun nozzle and insulates it to a great degree, as well.

You want the slanted end on the outside, of course, and it should be oriented properly - hold the gun normally, so it would lie against the object being glued.

Since this is now a longer tube, you can more easily reach into many areas. The longer copper tube MAY lose a bit more heat than the original. On my original Alene mod, I wrapped a few layers of the Teflon plumbing tape around it, up to near the end, as an insulator. This may also save some foam damage when you are tooting around in a confined space. (No need to do this if you applied JB to cement it all in place and to build up the protective layer as shown in the picture.


I find that I can make very small, strong joints, no excess glue and very quickly. It works well to run a fast little bead along a hinge line, then scrape the excess off by running a popsicle stick, credit card or piece of cardboard along that line.

Bonus tip: Yesterday, I picked up another glue gun at Michaels. Applying their 40% off coupon that came in the weekly flyer, the thing cost me $2.70, tax included!
« Last Edit: February 12, 2015, 05:33:38 AM by Deerslayer »
My purpose in Life is to serve as a Warning to others

Offline Deerslayer

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 641
  • Fly hard, Learn stuff, Have fun!
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #6 on: November 11, 2015, 08:00:18 AM »
The following video comes courtesy of the fellows at Flite Test. Is it required viewing for anyone who plans to attend the Flypaper College of Aero-nut-ical Knowledge, and it is pretty darn useful to mere mortals who fancy messing around with the stuff. Please enjoy:

https://youtu.be/DnJ85Sz1iak



Postscript:

 For me, the most valuable and frequently used trick with hot glue is the use of rubbing alcohol to break a hot glue joint without damaging anything. Just apply liberally to the glued region and start prying. As you peel away the glue, keep the interface wet. The alcohol wicks into the joint, vapourizes and releases the bond. You can easily clean up a servo, foam or other item that was all gunked up with old hot glue.

 The alcohol will not damage anything that I have worked with so far.

 If some glue is left, don't worry, just re-install whatever you need and the new glue will meld with the old stuff.
« Last Edit: November 11, 2015, 08:41:28 AM by Deerslayer »
My purpose in Life is to serve as a Warning to others

Offline ganguy

  • KRCM Members
  • ***
  • Posts: 581
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2015, 07:37:33 AM »
I was hoping to graduate this year from the FCAK, hope this will help. I've got about 6 wrecks awaiting hot glue magic. In fact, my whole fleet is down except for the SU27.
Now that trick with the alcohol is interesting, I'll try it, but can you use the drinking stuff too? Imagine the smell of a vodka-soaked Pitts!
GG
Churchill said: "Success is a series of failures during which one does not lose enthusiasm!"

Offline ganguy

  • KRCM Members
  • ***
  • Posts: 581
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2015, 08:22:50 AM »
After watching the video, I found the best trick (after the alcohol trick)  to be the edge-sealing with a notched piece of foam board. Otherwise, the rest I learned at the FCAK in Hot Glue basics, otherwise known as HG 101
Gary - what is the longest tip mod using fuel tubing? Sometimes I'd like to get 2-3 inches for repairs inside the fuse.
GG
Churchill said: "Success is a series of failures during which one does not lose enthusiasm!"

Offline Deerslayer

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 641
  • Fly hard, Learn stuff, Have fun!
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #9 on: November 12, 2015, 11:28:44 AM »

Gary - what is the longest tip mod using fuel tubing? Sometimes I'd like to get 2-3 inches for repairs inside the fuse.
GG

I used about 1 inch extension from the base. I wrapped it with some layers of Teflon tape, tapering down to near the tip, figuring that this would prevent excess heat loss. I seems to work OK. If I let the thing sit for awhile under power, the glue inside the tip section may turn brown and/or become less useful. So, I do a little squirt of glue, then wipe the tip prior to using it.

Caveat: This whole approach is NOT YET approved by the Master and therefore cannot yet be added into the HG 101 curriculum at the FCAK. Employ at your own risk. And, do not even think of suing me if it all goes into the dumper...
I know some very nasty folks who are always looking out to make a little "contract" money, if you know what I mean.
Your friend, Gary.


A friend will help you.
A good friend will help you move.
Your best friend will help you move a body
.
My purpose in Life is to serve as a Warning to others

Offline Deerslayer

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 641
  • Fly hard, Learn stuff, Have fun!
    • View Profile
Cable Tie Hinges
« Reply #10 on: January 02, 2016, 09:43:06 AM »
Cable Ties come in various sizes and are excellent to make hinges from.  Such hinges can be used, as in the example shown, to make interplane struts for a biplane, or for regular control hinges (either on the surface of $Tree foam or into drilled holes on balsa or heavier foam). Attached are some pictures of my technique.

 1. Take a small piece of 1mm or so control rod. Lay the cable tie on the bench, smooth side down and then lay the rod across it.

 2. Clamp down the combination with the vise grips, having previously adjusted them so that the rod will squash down the cable tie hinge location. This may take some trials to decide upon the exact amount.

 3. Remove the vice grips and snip your hinge to appropriate length. Work it back and forth a few times, you should feel it become more flexible.

 The hinge can be attached with hot glue, polyurethane, almost anything that will stick to the thing you are attaching it to. The ribbed side provides an excellent grip.

 This material is essentially chemically inert, so you want a clean mechanical bond. I take some acetone and wipe the hinge and, in the case of carbon fibre or metal, I wipe that surface as well.

 Since you are not cutting the material, just plastically deforming it, it should not break in reasonable use. No guarantees, just my personal opinion! Your mileage may vary.

 This message is brought to you, and approved by,
Foamology Department
Flypaper College of Aero-nut-ical Knowledge
 "Conquering the skies one glue stick at a time."
My purpose in Life is to serve as a Warning to others

Offline Deerslayer

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 641
  • Fly hard, Learn stuff, Have fun!
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #11 on: January 02, 2016, 04:39:47 PM »
Addendum:
  On my little homebrew, sort-of-Flypaper style biplane, I needed to install something to lock on the wheels. The heads of cable ties work admirably! Being a cheap SOB, I have a collection of slightly used cable ties of various sizes in my pile of treasures. You just press the head onto the axle, snip off the strap and voila, a surprisingly secure yet removable wheel retainer. No need to waste precious coin on little wheel collars and battle with tiny, crappy hex keys.

 Penny Tech rules!  ;D
My purpose in Life is to serve as a Warning to others

Offline ganguy

  • KRCM Members
  • ***
  • Posts: 581
    • View Profile
Re: Hints and Kinks
« Reply #12 on: January 23, 2017, 01:12:43 PM »
I like that one, Gary. Once you did a bit on making dummy cylinder heads, where can I find that?
Reg
Churchill said: "Success is a series of failures during which one does not lose enthusiasm!"